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Like many grandmothers, Xi Jie’s Ah Ma loves to cook. In this article, she explores a grandmother’s love and sacrifice for her family, as well as the tale of how the black sauce crab came about. My Ah Ma likes her food very sweet and very spicy. She has no qualms about thickening a curry with glugs of coconut milk or adding unhealthy mounds of ketchup to a wok of bubbling gravy, a style described by my mother as “a bit reckless”. To eat her food means venturing into the unknown depths of high cholesterol. Yet my Ah Ma religiously…